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Finance and lending Q & A for The Fox Group

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Finance and lending Q & A for The Fox Group

We recently sat down with Central Coast-based Chartered Accountants The Fox Group to discuss some common questions within our industry.

What are the main reasons finance is knocked back?

Occasionally we see clients who have defaulted on a telco and other accounts on a regular basis. If you have had a dispute with another business, it is vital to have it resolved. Because they usually then list an unresolved account on your credit file for all lenders to see.

What are the things lenders are looking at when considering finance approvals? Where do they look & what information is visible in your credit file? What to do if you have something to your credit file?

They are looking for the customer that has been in business at least two years and registered for GST. For a large purchase, they would most likely want up to date financials as well as a commitment, asset and liability statement.

For cars, up to 100K, we mostly don’t require any financials just proof of good past credit. Your credit file, unfortunately, tells any lender your true credit history. All loan inquiry, any defaults, court orders and judgements. It will also disclose any companies you are a director of. Tax dept debt is the latest to be listed on your credit file. Credit repair agencies may be of some assistance if you are trying to clean up your file however they are very expensive.

Do multiple applications hurt? Are you better off getting the application right from the start?

Yes, they do indeed, the more credit file applications, the more your credit score is eroded. Shop around first before pressing the button.

What should a borrower have to make the lending process a smooth one?

Up to date financials, forecasts, management accounts, Clean portal history with ATO, etc.

These days an honest declaration of all assets and liabilities as the financier can see your debt as the banks now share the information under new lending guidelines. ATO debt is a big negative for all banks now. On large deals, they want it cleared before approval, and in most cases, this is very difficult.

How to secure the cheapest overall costs of finance? I.e., How to get the best rates. Any suggestions

Use a finance broker who is tapped into all the banks and is offered their best rates on a weekly basis. Stay clear of car yard finance.

What are the main types of finance offered in the industry for Plant & Equipment? Does it matter these days?

Mostly Chattel Mortgages for the self-employed. Novated leasing for salary packaging and Rental for Schools and Hospitals.

Balloon or No Balloon? Does it matter?

I tend to like no balloon as you will get equity in your purchase much faster. Still, most people do take a balloon to keep the payments at a manageable level. You have to be very careful having a long-term finance contract and a high balloon on a vehicle that does not hold its value. If the car is worth less than the outstanding balloon at trade-in time, you’ll have pay the shortfall.

What are some of the myths with finance? i.e. : You need to have had a credit card to have a credit history?

No, you don’t many people only have a debit card. If you do not have any credit history, then you don’t have a credit file, so funding is harder to get. Paying cash all the time may work against you.

How can some dealerships offer 1% finance on new vehicles & equipment?

The product they sell is called a subvention contract. You pay full retail for the car then the car yard has to give the finance company up to 8k to cover interest. The trouble with this is that you have to have a balloon on the end that is a percentage of the full sale price on t the discounted price, so you are always paying more overall. Negotiate the best deal and fund the car with a separate financier.

Any tips for negotiating the best price on new equipment? Eg End of the quarter, etc.

End of the calendar year, end of month end of June are always the best times. I always see the best deals if the sale is negotiated in the last four days trading as long as it can be delivered by the end of that month.

What are the key advantages you believe in using an equipment broker vs a Bank? Eg, Speed, multiple pricing options, etc.

All good brokers will shop around and negotiate the best deal as far as rate, penalties, and fees. On large loans some banks may be slightly cheaper than others, however, will have a considerably long and arduous application process. We always inform the client if another lender may be cheaper and ask them for say $450 per month do they want to spend days collating pages of questions. Cheapest is not always best.

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Why should I use a broker instead of going to a bank?

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Why should I use a broker instead of going directly to a bank?

This is a question we hear a lot, and when sourcing finance it is something that can be confusing. There isn’t necessarily a right and wrong option, it all comes down to specific business requirements, the desired level of service, specialisation and time.

We thought we’d simplify it by detailing why a lot of people do use brokers and Leasecorp in particular.

Large Lender Network:
At Leasecorp we have established relationships with more than fifteen significant Australian lenders. This enables us to find you not only a competitive finance rate but also enhances the possibility that your funding will be approved. On the other hand, a bank representative is restricted to not only one rate but a limited number of lending products and structures. Our financiers know that every client and business is different and by strategically presenting your application to the right lender significantly enhances the possibilities of approval. This approach has enabled us to maintain a 98% approval rate.

Personalised service – ‘It’s all about you’:

We pride ourselves on offering a 5-star personalised service every time. Every individual client is assigned their own financier that will work with them one on one for the duration of their time with us. We love getting to know all our clients and the businesses that they run or work for. We will come and meet with you at your home or place of business. We take care of all the paperwork and dealings with our lending partners to enable you to get on with more important things.

Access to National Fleet Listings:
Being in business for over 27 years has allowed us to form relationships with dealers and suppliers Australia wide. This means that in addition to providing finance we can source vehicles, heavy equipment, trucks, buses & boats at fantastic rates.

Lightning fast approvals:
On average our approvals are complete within 24-48 hours after submission, in some instances in the same day, an element of our service that continues to make us popular with our clients.

Specialisation – We know your business:
Our clients come from a variety of different industries and professions from drilling, excavation & transport to pilots, engineers, and architects. Our experience dealing with clients and continued research carried out by us over the years has enabled us to develop in-depth knowledge of the various industries our clients come from. This experience is vital when deciding which lending partner and structure is most suitable for you.

Peace of mind:
Unlike banks, we are here to help throughout the duration of your loan and are your private funding partner for whatever you or your business may need.

If you’d like a quote or assistance sourcing a new or used vehicle or piece of machinery, we’d love to be of assistance.

Either contact us in reply to this email, via the link below or on 1800 232 615.

‘Let’s get you approved today’. 

Our favourite Ute’s of 2017

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Inspired by last weeks unveiling of Mercedes-Benz’ new X-Class ute, we thought we’d put together a list of our top five favourite and best selling utilities of 2017 so far.

Firstly a bit about the new X-Class and available engines. In Australia, it will come in the X220d a 2.3-litre four-cylinder single-turbo diesel with 120kW of power and 403Nm of torque. The X250d – a 2.3-litre four-cylinder twin-turbo diesel with 140kW of power and 450Nm of torque and finally the X350d – a 3.0-litre V6 turbo diesel with a class-leading 190kW of power and Amarok-equalling 550Nm of torque. (Won’t be available until mid-2018.)

Although not set to hit our shores until early next year, they’re expected to be competitively priced in the $45k-$55k range, the mid-spec in the mid-$50k to mid-$60k and the Power version could reach new levels for dual-cabs in the Aussie market.

For more on the X-Class head to http://www.themotorreport.com.au/65397/2018-mercedes-benz-x-class-ute-revealed or for order enquiries and finance enquiries give us a call on 1800 232 615.

Now onto our top five starting from the back;

5. Mitsubishi Triton:

Starting from number five, this year we have funded, test driven and delivered lots of Mitsubishi Triton for our clients.
Firstly the styling additions add to the exterior appeal of the sometimes polarising Triton (although not the strongest points).
– Upgraded class leading diesel engine and gearbox combo are excellent.
– Infotainment system now at the head of the segment.

4. Toyota Hilux:

To one of Australia’s all time favourites the Toyota Hilux which topped the May and June sales charts.
Although no petrol or supercharged options anymore, the TRD aesthetic inclusions certainly add some flair to the Hilux flagship.
– Excellent engine refinement
– Smart Transmission
– Improvement to cabin space
– Better settled when loaded up
– Great LED headlights

3. Holden Colorado:

Although previously struggling in the sales department, the new facelift and equipment updates have made it a much more attractive option to the Australian buyer.
The Colorado now includes seven airbags, rear view camera, Apple CarPlay (first in class), digital radio, cruise control, digital speed display, remote entry, automatic headlights, LED daytime running lights, auto “up” power windows on all four doors, and rear air vents on crew cab models.

Additional improvements include sound deadening between the engine and the driver. The front side windows are now 4mm thick rather than 3mm, to dull road noise. New rubber mounts for the engine, transmission and body are designed to improve refinement.

2. Volkswagen Amarok:

If ride quality is important to you, the Amarok is a step above the rest, both unladen and laden it is excellent.
– Cabin design and finish are the best in the segment by some margin.
– The V6 the most powerful in the class (165kW  (180kW with ‘Over-boost’) and a thumping 550Nm of torque from a low 1500rpm.
– New multi-collision braking system that stops it from rolling forward after an impact
– The grille and front fascia have been refreshed, giving the already handsome Amarok a bolder new face.

1. Ford Ranger: 
Ok so if it’s strictly the price that you’re concerned about this one may not be for you. Having said that the Amarok-ish price point is well justified with the number of inclusions and features of this particular Ute.
By far the best and most consistently comfortable ride, handling, suspension and balance, delivering a smooth and forgiving ride on a range of surfaces, even heavily weighted down the Ranger remain secure and stable.
– Front and rear parking senses with reversing camera (adaptive grids).
– Radar cruise control & lane departure
– Apple Play and adequate USB and 12V sockets front and rear reversing camera.

It will be interesting to see how the Mercedes X-Class goes up against both the Amarok and Ranger early next year.

Industry rumours Ute concepts and new introductions:
– Tesla Electric Pickup
– New Dodge Ram (Australian spec)
– Jeep Wrangler Pickup

If you’re looking to upgrade, want to arrange finance or utilise Leasecorp’s ‘car buying service’ to ensuring you get the best price and value on your purchase – get in touch with us below. 

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Do’s and Don’ts of driving in Ice and snow?

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With a lot of our clients planning on heading to the snow this season we thought we’d put together a Do’s and Dont’s of winter driving to ensure that drivers are prepared and stay as safe as possible.

Thankfully in Australia, we don’t experience the real winter extremes of Russia, Canada or Alaska, however driving in icy wet conditions anywhere can still be dangerous.

Don’t:
– Warm up your vehicle in an enclosed area
– Warm your car up for too long before driving (your engine will warm up faster and more efficiently driving)
– Apply hand brake when parking (break can freeze)
– Use cruise control
– Leave windscreen wipers down
– Risk driving without chains in 2 wheel drive vehicles (Check out here)

Do:
– Accelerate/Decelerate slowly to maintain traction and avoid skidding.
– Drive slowly
– Consider adding anti-freeze to your engine radiator
– Keep fuel levels topped up
– Use your lights
– Be conscious of Black Ice
– If driving a diesel vehicle, try and use ‘Alpine Diesel’ if available.
– Increase driving distances to other vehicles to allow for longer stopping times (5-6 seconds).
– If driving in snow, try to avoid unrequired stopping especially on inclines.
– Track weather reports
– Carry a torch (and spare batteries), blanket, dry, warm clothes, tow rope, shovel, wheel chocks, spare food and water, and a first-aid kit.
– Clear ice from windows and mirrors
– Engage 4×4 in snow or ice conditions
– Have your car serviced before embarking on your journey.
– Keep bottles of water in the car

Stay safe & enjoy your trip!

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There’s a right and a wrong way to buy a new car

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Our most recent article was focussed on ‘tips when purchasing a used car.’ So we thought we’d also detail some useful advice to assist you when purchasing a new car.

Over the last 30 years, the internet has changed the way we as consumers search and compare products and services. In regard to the motor trade, this now means that most people spend days if not weeks researching their desired vehicle by the time they enter a dealership, equipt with a clear idea of pricing and model variances.

This is a great thing, as information in power. Knowing exactly what vehicle you want means that you are less likely to be guided into another car by a salesman looking to clear slow-moving stock.

While research is important it pays to ensure you are doing the right research. This should include finding out how long the particular vehicle you are looking for has been in production and whether it is about to be superseded by a new one. There is nothing wrong with purchasing a cheaper car as long as you are aware that the introduction of a new model may impact the resale of yours.

Ok so let’s cut to the chase, what to look out for.

1. 0% finance:
When some car dealers in Australia advertise incredibly generous finance deals, the purchaser may find themselves buying the vehicle at full retail price. There most likely won’t be any discount on a new car which is purchased using the dealer’s finance. The dealer may offset any loss brought on by his generous finance offer, so it is best to have your financing provided by a reliable third party and aim for a new car discount from the dealer.

At Leasecorp we help hundreds of clients a year secure finance for new and used vehicles at highly competitive rates prior to them stepping foot in a car yard, this enables them to know what they have to spend and what they can afford.

As a test, walk into a dealer that is offering 0% finance and ask for the total repayment figure.

2. Quotes:
Always get a quote in person and in writing, this will help you negotiate with other dealers on the same make and model of the vehicle.

3. Negotiate:

When beginning price discussion with the dealer understand that the manufacturer’s list price is often nothing more than a starting point with most new car dealers willing to negotiate if they can tell you’re serious.

Let us do it for you. We love this phase and enjoy getting great results for our clients. Our national fleet listing means we can shop your rate across many dealers to ensure you get the most value for your purchase.

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4. Trading in a vehicle:
A trade-in can seem quite convenient and straight forward but do your research on trade in prices before mentioning this to the dealer and keep in mind they will often pay less than market rates because they, in turn, have to make a profit on the vehicle when it’s sold.

We typically encourage our customers to consider a private sale as an option. If your car is in relatively good condition and has adequate service records, you could get substantially more money.

5. Don’t rule out a demonstrator vehicle:
Once a dealer has registered a new vehicle it is technically considered second hand. While this may be the case it could also only have 130km’s on the odometer and most sales people will be much more willing to negotiate on demo models.

6. Check the build plate:
Usually located on the firewall of the car, this details exactly when the car was made. This is important as a car listed as a January 2015 vehicle may have actually been built at the end of 2014, meaning it is technically a 2014 model.

7. Test Drive:
Speak to the dealer, ask if you can take the car for a longer drive which will potentially enable you to drive the vehicle on a variety of road surfaces to experience how the car truly handles.

8. Say no to optional extras:
This is a big one, far too often we have clients come in and tell us what dealers tried to charge them for these add-ons. We typically advise all our customers to never agree to extras like rustproofing, paint protection or window tinting, these are often significantly over-priced.

On this note, be careful signing up for extended warranties as these in many cases require the purchaser to agree to have the vehicle serviced at that dealership for the warranty to take effect. In saying this, having your car serviced by the manufacturer can be expensive but positively affects resale.

With these considerations in mind, let us help you get the best new car possible.

Get finance for your new car today!

Must do’s when buying a used car

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So you’ve decided to buy a used car. So what next?

At Leasecorp we help lots of our clients find and secure great used vehicles, but it pays to be prepared so as to make the purchase as safe and hassle-free as possible.

1. Budget:
First things first, know what you can afford to spend.

This means not only securing finance or having the money ready for the initial purchase but weighing up running costs like fuel, maintenance, insurance & average depreciation.

2. Research:
We hold national fleet status with many manufacturers Australia wide and can often find you a similar if not identical vehicle at much lower prices.

Our vehicle find service is free to Leasecorp Customers – FIND MY CAR TODAY

It pays to know the market value of the vehicle you have in mind before meeting with the seller; this will give you a lot more negotiating power. Sites like carsguide.com.au and redbook.com.au are useful in establishing a price point.

When selecting what vehicle you are looking for be specific with your requirements and know details like, badge or class, engine type, manual/auto, series, build date. For example, a 2014 Toyota Prado comes in 6cyl, 4.0i Petrol & 4cyl, 3.0DT Diesel, Manual/Auto, Altitude, GX, GXL, Kakadu and VX as well as GRJ150R & KDJ150R series. These finer details will have an impact on the asking price.

Look for information on the housing, maintenance and use of the vehicle. i.e a car used only to drive short distances to and from work vs. a car previously operated as a taxi that has been housed opposite the beach.

Know the average kilometres for the build date of the vehicle you are looking for.

3. Contact the seller:
If you find a vehicle that looks good, give the seller a call and ask the following questions.
– How long have they owned the car?
– What is their reason for selling it?
– Has the vehicle ever been damaged?
– What condition is the car in, and is there any issues not show in the photos?
– Will it pass a roadworthy inspection?
– How detailed is the car’s service history and is it with the car?

4. Before arranging an inspection and test drive:

Inform the seller you intend to do an encumbrance check (PPSR check – previously known as a REVS check) and other checks on the car.

Obtain the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and go to revs.com.au to purchase a complete car history report (the VIN can be found on the registration certificate, or on the engine, door posts (where the door latches when it is closed), or the passenger side windscreen).

5. Arrange an inspection:

If it passes all the above, arrange a suitable time to inspect/test drive the vehicle.

It is important to always organise inspections during daylight, never in the dark or in the rain that could conceal body marks, dents, rust and other defects.

– Check underneath the body, bonnet and carpet for rust and signs – such as evidence of welding or paint overspray — which may indicate the car has been repaired after a crash.
– Check the gaps between the body panels are equal – if not, this could indicate poor crash repairs.
– Under the bonnet, look for signs of any oil leaks. Use the dipstick to check the amount of oil. If the level is low, the owner hasn’t been looking after the car properly.
Look around the oil filler cap for a white mayonnaise-like substance – this could be an an indication of a leaking head gasket which can be very expensive to fix.
Check all tyres – including the spare – to make sure there’s plenty of tread and that they’re wearing evenly.
Inside the car, make sure the seatbelts work correctly and aren’t damaged, the front seats move properly and all switches and features work.
Try to start the car when the engine is cold, which can help reveal problems like poor starting or smoke that indicates engine wear. If the seller has warmed the car up, they could be trying to hide something.

Make sure the VIN, engine number and registration details on the car match those on the registration papers.


6. Test Drive:
– before you set off, turn the steering wheel from one lock to the other to check for any play, or any irregular noises that could indicate power steering problems
– test the handbrake on a steep hill to make sure it’s correctly adjusted
– listen for any irregular noises from the engine, and make sure the radio is off
– drive the car at highway speeds if possible, and try to find different road surfaces to give a better impression of how the car behaves
– check that the transmission shifts up and down through the gears smoothly and that the clutch on a manual doesn’t slip and actuates smoothly.

7. Negotiation:

If you like the vehicle and it has passed all the above, begin to leverage with the information you have gathered about the car as well as
– Make a list of any faults you discovered during the inspection, and negotiate based on the cost of fixing these problems
– If there are no faults, suggest a reasonable figure beneath the asking price. The seller will then either accept, decline or suggest a price closer to the asking figure. Work through this process until both parties agree.

8. Purchasing the car:

Ensure you have all the registration and service history of the car and the details match the seller, make sure they are originals, not photocopies.
Get a receipt for any payment you make with sellers full details.

PPSR Certificate:
On the day you take ownership of the vehicle, purchase a PPSR (formerly REVS) Certificate to protect you against repossessions.

Get finance for your new car today!

Know your car - Leasecorp Finance

15 things every driver should know about their car before they get their licence.

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So you’ve just spent 120 hours with your son or daughter teaching them how to operate a vehicle and navigate traffic safely.

They are now technically eligible to sit for their provisional test and if successful will be allowed to drive unaccompanied on Australia roads.

While this is a great thing for everyone to experience it is astounding to learn many Australian drivers do not know or understand many fundamental elements of the vehicles that they are operating and more importantly what to do in the instance something goes wrong.

At Leasecorp we help finance new and used vehicles for many young Australia’s, so we have put together what we feel is the 15 most important things everyone should know about cars once they get a driving licence.

1. How to change a tyre:
Inevitably due to the nature of tyres and the harshness of many Australian roads all of us will at some point experience a flat tyre. What many people don’t seem to realise is how easy they are to change. The NRMA website gives an excellent step by step instruction on how to change a flat tyre safely and with ease.

2. Check tyre pressure:
This one is an important one, driving with over- or under-inflated tires is a dangerous and an unnecessary hazard. This is due to the uneven distribution of weight transferred to each wheel while driving. In the instance of heavy breaking, your vehicle is at higher risk or losing control.

Most service stations have automatic pressure gauge systems that let you quickly check and adjust your tyres.

Every car should have a chart inside the driver-side door that lists the optimum pressure for the front and rear tires. Achieving correct levels is an easy way to maximise fuel economy too.

3. How to change oil:
To ensure the longevity and performance of your engine, oil levels should be monitored frequently.
Many people leave this to mechanics at a scheduled services, but this is a costly mistake. The Supercheap Auto website gives you a great guild on how to both check and replace your engine oil.

4. Understand how different cars handle:
As a new driver you will most likely have only been driving one vehicle, but as you become more experienced you will eventually drive other friends and family members cars. It is very important to understand how different cars drive and handle to ensure safe operation.

There are typically three different types of drives, front wheel, rear wheel, or all wheel. Front-wheel drive vehicles in low-traction conditions can cause you to plough ahead, even though you have the wheel fully turned. Rear-wheel-drive is popular for high-performance cars but can cause you to lose the tail end of the vehicle if driven dangerously. All-wheel drive and four-wheel drive are the safest for tricky conditions and will send power to the wheels with the most traction.

5. How to drive a manual vehicle:
It is amazing to learn the high number of Gen Y and Z’s that cannot operate a manual vehicle. Although many car manufacturers are increasing production of automatic cars there are still a large number of manual cars on our roads. whether it’s just to avoid being the annoying friend that can’t share the road trip or for emergency situations, it pays to know how to drive a manual car.

6. How to keep a maintenance log:
Unless you have purchased a new vehicle and intend to have it serviced by the manufacturer at regular intervals, it pays to carry and fill out a maintenance log of all work that has been done on your car. This not only saves you being ripped off by mechanics but also improves the value of your vehicle come the resale time as the purchaser can see that you have been meticulous in the servicing and preservation of the car.

7. What to keep in your glove box:
This one is just to make life easier. As a must, you should always carry a copy of your insurance information, registration and drivers licence. And in the case of an emergency, a flashlight and first-aid kit are must-have items for your glove box. And for the overly prepared, hand sanitiser, gloves, tissues and bottle of water (not plastic).

8. How to Parallel park:
Have you ever been stuck behind a driver making numerous attempts at a parallel park? Annoying isn’t it. It’s not just that people are impatient, it’s that there is a mathematical process to parallel parking and it’s easy. Once mastered anyone can park quickly and easily. Check out this.

9. How to safely control slide:
Ok, so we don’t get a lot of snow in Australia, but we do get slippery, icy and greasy road conditions that if not driving suitably can lead to loss of traction or sliding.
To counter the sliding and regain control of the car, 1. don’t panic or overcorrect 2. lift off the brake pedal (do not stomp on the break even with ABS) to allow the wheels to freely rotate, turn into the slide, and then press down to slow the rotating rubber mass. Repeat this process until you come to a stop.

10. How to get unstuck when bogged:
This will be generally only encountered if four-wheel-driving but an important one to know. Check out this 4×4 recovery at https://www.campertraileraustralia.com.au/features/technical/1503/4wd-recovery-how-to-unbog-your-vehicle.

11. To warm up your engine at stationary or by driving:
According to studies carried out at the Argonne National Laboratory when your engine is cold, the gasoline is less likely to evaporate and create the correct ratio of air and vaporised fuel for combustion. Engines with electronic fuel injection have sensors that compensate for the cold by pumping more gasoline into the mixture. The engine continues to run rich in this way until it heats up to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

“That’s a problem because you’re actually putting extra fuel into the combustion chamber to make it burn and some of it can get onto the cylinder walls,” Stephen Ciatti, a mechanical engineer who specialises in combustion engines at the Argonne National Laboratory in Chicago, told Business Insider. “Gasoline is an outstanding solvent, and it can actually wash the oil off the walls if you run it in those cold idle conditions for an extended period of time.”

The life of components like piston rings and cylinder liners can be significantly reduced by gasoline washing away the lubricating oil, not to mention the extra fuel that is used while the engine runs rich. Driving your car is the fastest way to warm the engine up to 40 degrees so it switches back to a normal fuel to air ratio. Even though warm air generated by the radiator will flow into the cabin after a few minutes, idling does surprisingly little to warm the actual engine. The best thing to do is start the car, take a minute to knock the ice off your windows, and get going.

12. How to check fluid levels:
Again to ensure you get the most optimum level of performance and prolong the lifespan of your car it is essential that you know, check and replace all the key fluids in your engine. The five main ones are listed at Popular Mechanics.

13. How to change a headlight:
Not only is it illegal, driving with a headlight out makes negotiating traffic and roads more difficult for both the driver, other drivers and pedestrians. Generally speaking, car headlights are easy to replace, but let’s face it, manufacturers could make it a bit simpler. What is difficult is that most vehicles have different types of globes for the high and low beam as well as different ways of changing. If you’re a first timer check out – http://www.dmv.org/how-to-guides/headlight.php.

14. How to jump start a car battery:
First things first, to do this, always keep a pair of jumper cables in your boot –you never know when they will come in handy. Turn off both cars. Start with the dead battery. Put a red clamp on the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Attach the other red clamp to the positive terminal of the live battery, and the black clamp to the negative (–) terminal of the live battery. Then attach the final black clamp to an unpainted metal surface on the dead car’s engine block (prevents hazardous sparking). Turn on the live car, and then try to jump-start the dead car. Run the dead car for at least half an hour to charge the battery back up. Wa-lah your back in business.

15. What fuel you should be running your car on:
This one is a tough one as most engines car, in theory, operate on any grades of fuel, assuming you’re not putting diesel in a petrol car and vice versa. The NRMA website has an excellent overview of fuel types. It pays to understand what grade of petrol to put in your car to achieve the greatest performance and range.

If you’re in the market for a new or used car, let us get you approved today, call us on 1800 232 615.

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